Renowned for its fresh air and its natural springs and the river Bardaouni, which cascades down the mountain, the region acquired a mythical reputation for gastronomy.
In 1920 two cafés opened by the river. They gave away assorted nuts, seeds, olives, bits of cheese, and raw vegetables with the local arak. Gradually the entire valley became filled with open-air cafés, each larger and more luxurious than the next, each vying to attract customers who flocked from all over the Middle East with ever more varied mezze.
The reputation of the local mountain-village foods they offered, of which tabbouleh was one of the jewels, spread far and wide and became a national institution. What started as a relatively substantial salad, rich with bulgur, was transformed over the years into an all-green herby affair.
==========================================================
When the first edition of my book came out, I received letters telling me I had too much bulgur in that recipe. One letter from Syria explained that mine was the way people made the salad many years ago, when they needed to fill their stomachs.
You see, many of my relatives left Syria for Egypt a hundred years ago, and that was how they continued to make it.
==========================================================
Instead of the bulgur I used quinoa. from Claudia Roden's book, The New Book of Middle Eastern Food.
The following is a contemporary version.
- ½ cup fine- or medium-ground bulgur (cracked wheat)
- Juice of 1-2 lemons, to taste 4 firm ripe tomatoes, diced
- Salt and pepper
- 4 scallions, thinly sliced or chopped
- 2 cups flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped by hand
- ⅔ cup finely chopped mint
- ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
- 2 Bibb lettuces or the heart of a romaine lettuce to garnish
Soak the bulgur in plenty of fresh cold water for 10 minutes. (Quinoa does not need to be soaked)
Rinse in a colander and press the excess water out.
Put the bulgur in a bowl with the lemon juice and the tomatoes.
Leave for 30 minutes, to absorb the lemon and tomato juices and until the grain is tender. Mix gently with the rest of the ingredients.
A traditional way of eating tabbouleh is to scoop it up with lettuce leaves.
An Egyptian version adds 1 or 2 small diced cucumbers.
No comments:
Post a Comment